Videos from Sardegna

Sardegna Bouldering – Tafoni, millions of boulders and Brigante Onesto (8B)

Ever heard of bouldering in Sardegna? No? Me neither! Why? No idea. Perhaps because many boulderers aren’t that rapidly over moon because of the beauty of rock and setting as me and look more on the climbing specific features? Perhaps. And well, it is true, that steep rock (that has not been eroded by water) in most of the endless boulder fields of the island needs quite a lot of brushing, that there are either good holds, very slopy ones or no holds at all and that crystals are rather big and thus cutting. But, hey!, for all other aspects bouldering down here is outstanding! And at least on the archipelago de la Maddalena you have all this AND good rock quality. But have a look yourself. These are only some of the most beautiful lines we found in three weeks there. And with Brigante Onesto (8B) even one hard one.

Brigante Onesto 8B – La Caprera/Sardegna


“An honest thief is one my ideals” is a citation from Garibaldi, the uniter of Italy, who bought the island of Caprera in the 19th century and the namesake of my hardest FA of three weeks in this crazy tafoni granite world. A place, where actually “stealing” new hard lines from the great potential can’t be the first option, but beauty has to be the idol you follow into the caves and domes and endless fields of boulders.

In addition the rock on the mainland with its big sharp crystals, few (or very good) holds and in overhangs big brushing potential isn’t the best rock to climb hard on and the only place, that we could figure out, where the granite is more solid and finer was the archipelago de la Maddalena and especially the island of Caprera. But for this you will have to watch the LP version of the video…

 

 

Videos from Patagonia

Azul es el cielo de los ciegos – South America’s first 9a in Piedra Parada, Argentina.

Muchas gracias amigos por un tiempo incréible!

Six weeks in great landscapes, great climbing, but above all with great people. The ultimate roots ambiance and the ultimate place to come down from your western urges.

More than 30 tries in the unique surrounding of the Calavera, the darkest place I ever climbed in. When blue skies just ahead are blinding your eyes you’ll have to wait for Patagonian autumn to see.

 

Impressions from El Chaltén – Including “Wasabi” (8B) and “El Ultimo Mate” (8B)

 

We wanted to leave El Chalten to visit Puerto Natales for only some days, but then I found this line. Never have seen rock like this before, never have made moves like this. Never in a spot like this. In the end it turned out to be pretty hard, 10 days of work. The best way to get back in shape after two months of no or only very few climbing. My tribute to greener traveling.

 

The cold and smelly breath of death, 8B+/8C, Dorotea, Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile – One of Latin Americas hardest Boulders

 

One of the most impressing landscapes on planet earth and some really nice bouldering, too. We passed two times for a little more than one week during this outstanding Patagonian summer with more good weather windows than bad ones. More of a bathing trip, than of a high level sport one, but definitely the best way to gain some form after almost two months off climbing again. Maybe one day we’ll be back for one of these alluring walls…

 

 

Videos from Ladakh/India

 

Pirmin Bertle in Indias hardest Boulder – Bacteria, 8B+, at 4000m

 

Craziest bouldering conditions I ever climbed in. 4000m above sea level, high after every try from the low oxygen, an air as dry as just the dust up there, the stomach full of bacteria, the fingers painful from never healing cuts and the most flashing landscape I have ever lived in.