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25.05.2017 - Ein Witz von einem Klettergebiet, Indianerruinen und…

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25.05.2017 - Capilla del Monte, oder sowas wie Bouldern – 8A+ zum…

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Videos

 

Für alle, die bewegte Bilder lieben. Oder die gerne mal eine Methode abkupfern ;)...

 

New boulders in Swizzy - Pirmin Bertle sending "Roots in the basement" (8A+) and working on "Underclass poem" (8C?)

What do you do, when you find yourself in the darkest winter since men do record the darkness of winters? And what do you do, when it is the most humid winter for more than 20 years, too?

You better find some dry and frozen boulders with perfect grip in midst of a lot of snow and just about 10km from your home town. We had this luck about one year ago on the Cousimbert next to Fribourg. And it is not just something climbable but really nice sandstone, space for up to 100 lines and truly high stuff, too. And above all we found some totally logic, pretty hard lines. Like "Underclass poem" SD that is supposed to become the first 8C boulder around, or one of the already sent four lines up from 8A. But have a look yourself…

Minimalomania (Fb8C+/9A trav.) - The new boulder traverse test piece in Lindental and my hardest climbing ever.

The big final of a crazy projecting process! Two days before the springtime bird protection closure –on January the 29th – I could finally send these 25 hardest moves in my life. 5 months and 40 days of work on a piece of rock in the Lindental near Bern/Switzerland that was meant to be much longer but showed off to be infernally hard.

Sophisticated climbing on perfect sandstone; big moves, tiny crimps and delicate foot work in a bloody tiring run through without any rest. 4 moves of 8B+ plus 11 moves of 8B traverse and 9 moves of 7B boulder to the top jug. I never have given so much of me into a project but on this windy day with perfect conditions and the most professional preparation I’ve ever managed it finally paid off :)

Thanks to Edelrid and Maiday. Read more on lizardclimbing.com!

Parmi les clochards (8B) - Tuff bouldering in the most picturesque down-and-out setting ever :)

Tripping through Europe, sleeping in ruins, caves and unfinished houses I often felt a bit like an outdoor down-and-out. Now finally, I dedicated a boulder to our non-climbing brothers in spirit: Parmi les clochards (“Among down-and-outs”) is situated exactly where I want to live if climbing doesn’t turn out as a solution to make my living. Under a waterproof bridge, near a river deep enough for bathing, in a picturesque old town setting and – well – just next to some more boulders: In the historical center of Fribourg.

The 16 moves on tuff rock on that bridge built in 1746 demands primarily pocket climbing, a high precision and a solid finger skin. It is the hardest boulder in the canton of Fribourg and actually - I found out - it is my hardest non traversing one as well :)

Pirmin Bertle in "Le lézard communiste" (8c/8c+), one of Switzerlands most beautiful high end routes!

"When performance isn’t wowing, better choose some beautiful climbing to stay psyched...". After a summer with only some bouldering I am retaking some steps towards route climbing. "Le lézard communiste" (8c/8c+) at the Jansegg, near the Gastlosen in Fribourg/Switzerland is the first of them. It took me about 15 tries to send this line of outstanding rock and crazy moves on the incomparable "shield" up at 1800 meters.

On a athletic 8a+ traversing part on good holds follows a moderate rest. The next 10 moves are one of the best I've ever climbed regarding the techniques and the holds. The boulder is about 7C+ and finishes in a good rest with a 10 meters 7a+ to the anchor. And this exit was just the easy one for this year. Instead the 7C+ there is waiting a 8B/8B+ on the original line. A nice 9a+ for next summer :)!

First ascent world record

The fastest first ascent of two 9a routes ever! Pirmin Bertle sends Chromosome X and Chromosome Y the 03/30/2012 between 7:00 and 8:15 pm at the Tribune in Charmey/Switzerland. These are his 6th and 7th 9a at all. Two weeks earlier his son was born...

Interview mit Pirmin, by Matthias Ryffel

20 Minuten höchst interessantes Gebrabbel über alles das, was Du noch nie wissen wolltest. So manches vom Klettern, so manches vom Leben als obdachloser Outdoorpenner und so manches über ganz andere Dinge, Gott die Welt und was noch bleibt, wenn die beiden nach Hause gegengen sind...
 

Pirmin Bertle sending "appel au sodom", 8c in Roche/Switzerland

A 45° traverse in a 45° overhang on for northern alp limestone really outstanding rock. Crimps and slopers, mixed up with pockets und monster jugs. Two Fb7b+ parts with a moderate rest point in between (yes, its better having a knee pad), followed by some potential drop out moves on the very top. It’s easier now, having a video, but the sequences are pretty tricky. First ascender Lionel Clerc did it without any hooking. Chapeau!

As one can easily see in the video it’s really windy up there and this is no exception. Thus “La pierre de folie”, as the sector is called is a spot with many days with perfect sending conditions. As well as last Sunday, redpointing it first try of the day in a “chilly breeze”.

2nd ascent in the 4th try this year, after already some tries last summer. Knowing all the beta tricks, no big 8c.

The video is one of the many works from our passion vertical photography book, that will be published by GeoQuest (geoquest-verlag.de) by the end of this year!

Pirmin Bertle sending "Jungle speed", 9a, in Siurana the 23.03.11

One of the last not that warm days in Catalunya this springtime and in a magnificent shape "Jungle speed" found me irresistible. First go of the day. A real walk through. Furthermore my 4th 9a during the last 12 months and together with "Leche caliente" (8c) and "Chocolate caliente" (8c+) my 3rd hard route on this trip.

Though you need a rope for "Jungle speed", one doesn’t need any endurance or similar. Two times fb7c+ in the first 5 moves and an 8a+ to finish, that’s it. But have the waterfall in mind that occurs after heavy rain. Even there’s just a 7c to redpoint to the top, it will for sure impede you from clipping the anker. So it happened to me in the 10th try. So I finally sent it in the 12th one. Happy an relieved… :)

Pirmin Bertle in "Dures Limites", 8c, Céüse, France

„Dures Limites“, 8c in Céüse, eine der wenigen natürlichen Linien in dem Grad am Fels und wirklich ein Empfehlung wert.

Filmen kann wirklich ein ganz schöner Knochenjob sein, vor allem wenn die Route, die aufs Band soll, Teil des Riegels von Céüse ist auf luftigen 600 Höhenmetern Zustieg. Und wenn es zudem bereits um 9 an den Fels gehen soll in der prallen Sonne und mir allerlei Stativen und Co. Und wenn zudem der Abend zuvor in einem Gelage erst um 4 Uhr Nachts geendet hat. Dann ist filmen ein wirklicher Knochenjob und im Gegensatz zu Photoshop kann man es hinterher nicht mal richtig weg retuschieren ;). Sei’s drum die Aktion war sehr interessant und das Ergebnis sehenswert. Danke Flo Murnig!

Pirmin Bertle sending Bah Bah Black Sheep, 8c+, Céüse

Old school filming, aber dafür ein echtes Original. Der Durchstieg von „Bah Bah Black Sheep“, 8c+ in Céüse.

Ich war wirklich überrascht, als ich dieses Video von Thibeaut zum ersten Mal sah, denn ich wusste zwar, dass er irgendetwas von der Route von unten mitgefilmt hatte und auch einige Fotos dabei waren, aber ich hatte überhaupt nicht überrissen, dass er wirklich genau den Durchstieg erwischt hatte. Das ändert natürlich nichts an der Kameraposition aber die emotionale Massage stimmt. Danke Thibeaut!

Die Route war damals meine 2. 8c+ und ich war in dem Sommer extra noch ein 2. Mal hin gefahren, ein Aufwand, der Dank meines neuen Wohnortes in der Schweiz zum Glück recht human ausfiel. Im Verlauf hatte ich allerdings mit einer spezifischen Angststörung den langen Untergriffzug betreffend zu kämpfen. Fast hätte ich die generelle Überzeugung erlangt, diesen Zug nie im Durchstieg zu schaffen. Doch es lief dann doch wie immer…